Over 1000 small vineyards from the 12 principal wine growing regions of France. Yes, there are cognacs, champagnes, calvados and eau de vie too. I'd recommend giving two days to this. Wines on day one and if you still have the courage, the other alcohols on day two. Pretty much every grape and cepage is present. Even organic wines or at least "culture raisonée". Not much in the way of the big burgundy's but pretty much everything else is represented.
In order to sell your wine here you must be a grower, harvest your own grapes, make and bottle on site. Store in your own cave and be your own salesman. There are no "negotiants" here, no cooperatives nor any of the big wine conglomerates. No, these are the little winemakers of France. Les vignerons indépendants !
The tickets are very easy to come by. Everyone at the entrance usually has come with several extra tix as more that one vineyard will have sent them multiple tickets. Anyone with an extra ticket is always willing to share. You shouldn't need to "buy" one but you can. I think they run 5 - 6 euros. As you come into the fair your ticket is taken, you are given both a guide to all the participants and a clean wine glass. It's yours to take home! But hang onto it! Everybody else has one too and as the day wears on...oh you can imagine.
If you are just learning about french wines, this is a very good introduction to some of the more unusual varieties that you don't often see outside of France. Nothing fancy. These are very small producers. Often a winemaking family that goes back generations. There are also the odd British couple that have bought a vineyard in the popular southwestern part of France and have leap into winemaking with a fervour!
Even if you don't speak french that shouldn't be a problem. Everyone here speaks "wine" ! Even a first time participant soon learns the etiquette. Just watch how your neighbor does it !
This is a pretty much all day affair where you go from booth to booth, tasting whatever the winemaker and their family is pouring. That can be upwards of 5 different wines. Whites, roses reds. First the lighter white or rosé is offered then you move progressively into the heavier reds. You aren't supposed to be drinking all of this obviously, so spitoons are on offer at each spot. Swirl the wine in the glass a bit, take a sip, let it sit in your mouth for a second or two, appreciating the subtle differences of flavor between each candidate then spit it out ! Offer your feedback and put your glass down on the shelf for the next taste.
The people manning each booth are both knowledgeable and hospitable. They are rightly proud of their wines, can tell you everything about the weather, their soil, this year as compared to last year, how long they think this particular wine or that should wait in your cave or not as the case maybe. All the while pouring you taste after taste after taste.Lunchtime is a jolly moment. Everyone piles up to the sandwich making booths for Foie Gras on a Baguette (my favorite) or Camembert or Saucisson...no sitting down I'm afraid. It's a test of one's stamina.
I've made real friends here. Made real discoveries that I keep going back to time and time again. Cote du Rhone Wines like St Joseph, Cairanne and Vacqueyras. Chateauneuf du Pape and Minervois. Wonderful discoveries of the wines of the Loire Valley. The prices will just floor you. It's really quite inexpensive compared to buying it from a store or from a wine merchant.
Yes, there are cognacs, champagnes, calvados and eau de vie too. I'd recommend giving two days to the Salon. Wine one day and all the other alcohols on day two. Pretty much every possible grape and cepage is present. Not much in the way of big Burgundy's but pretty much everything else has a representative in the over 1000 vineyards participating.
You may purchase wine here : the price is given usually by the case. Some will sell you 3- 6 bottles at the tail end of the fair. All of the participants have a limited amount that they can bring ( think it is one palats worth) So they may not have wine to sell you right then and there. In which case, you may pre-order wine which is delivered to your Parisian address in the days following the fair.
Not to worry, the fair organizers make it all very easy. They loan you a cart (chariot) for free. Or can sell you one (guaranteed for three years) inexpensively. They have a place for storing your treasure (for a small sum) so that you can continue to stock up on goodies and consolidate your purchases for delivery or pick-up afterwards. To a local address or even organize worldwide delivery service. Last but not least, there are three daily classes in wine tasting offered for free. They really have thought about pretty much everything !
If you are uncomfortable in a crowd or are in a hurry, this won't be for you. It's somewhat like a raucous party of old friends and their new friends! The idea isn't to drink 'til you drop, but meet the winemakers, collect addresses for future visits and discover a new cépage or grower making something that entices your palate !
Where ?
Porte de Versailles Pavilion 7/1 (follow the crowd) Easy access by trams 2a and 3b as well as metro: Ligne 12 station "Porte de Versaille"
When ?
Thursday 27th November, Friday the 28th November, Saturday 29th and Sunday the 30th
Open from 10am til 20pm
Monday 1 December is closing day and the fair is open from 10am and closes at 6pm.
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